After going in and out of Bangkok, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur airports in recent weeks, nothing could have prepared me for the chaos that was arrival at Perth airport in Australia.
As one guy said to me, "this is the worst airport in the world".
And so it was. A 50 minute queue for a passport stamp. 20 minutes waiting for luggage to arrive. 2 hours to clear customs. Long queues, rude staff, inefficiency and a total inability to handle incoming passengers.
A customs officer standing around doing nothing said to me when I questioned the long queue "We can't cope when 3 planes come in at once". Maybe if he and his colleaugues who were standing about doing nothing helped out, things would go just a little faster.
Part of the problem is that Australia's customs rules are so hideously complicated that virtually everyone has something to declare. And customs staff are so hideously suspicious that if you don't declare anything you are almost certain to be inspected anyway.
But Perth Airport has become a joke. When it takes longer to clear customs than in major airports you know something is wrong. It's OK to have strict customs laws but there is no excuse for understaffing on such a huge scale.
Thursday, January 18, 2007
Boat Ride on the Chao Phraya River
We were feeling brave so went down to the Oriental Pier on the Chao Phraya River to go for a boat tour. Brave because the Chao Phraya River and surrounds is home to more con men, liars, theives and touts that the rest of Bangkok put together.
There are large official looking signs citing "official" prices but ignore these. Ignore also the touts that follow you around and deal direct with the boat companies. Eventually we settled on 1000 baht for a private boat for 90 minutes (down from 1400 baht) and headed off.
It is actually a great trip and you get to see the river up close, along with all the folks who live along the river. The highlights are a visit to Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn) and some of the smaller canals which run off the river.
The downside is the boat captains, who incessantly pester you to go to crocodile / orchid / snake farms, to extend your tour or give him a large tip. When that failed the guy dropped us off a few stops early then looked genuinely suprised when he got no tip.
As soon as we alighted some idiot with badge describing himself as a "Boat Captain" shoved an obviously old, yellowing reciept in my hand and demanded 20 baht "landing fee". Rest assured folks, "boat captains" brandishing yellowing old tickets covered in Thai writing are *not* actually employed to collected landing fees and yes, this was another scammer.
Watch out for these guys.....there were three of them but 10 of us and they backed down when confronted.
The Chao Phraya River is a great place to explore but be prepared to put up with a lot of BS as part of your trip there.
There are large official looking signs citing "official" prices but ignore these. Ignore also the touts that follow you around and deal direct with the boat companies. Eventually we settled on 1000 baht for a private boat for 90 minutes (down from 1400 baht) and headed off.
It is actually a great trip and you get to see the river up close, along with all the folks who live along the river. The highlights are a visit to Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn) and some of the smaller canals which run off the river.
The downside is the boat captains, who incessantly pester you to go to crocodile / orchid / snake farms, to extend your tour or give him a large tip. When that failed the guy dropped us off a few stops early then looked genuinely suprised when he got no tip.
As soon as we alighted some idiot with badge describing himself as a "Boat Captain" shoved an obviously old, yellowing reciept in my hand and demanded 20 baht "landing fee". Rest assured folks, "boat captains" brandishing yellowing old tickets covered in Thai writing are *not* actually employed to collected landing fees and yes, this was another scammer.
Watch out for these guys.....there were three of them but 10 of us and they backed down when confronted.
The Chao Phraya River is a great place to explore but be prepared to put up with a lot of BS as part of your trip there.
Chinatown
We returned to Bangkok to stay in Chinatown, at the Grand China Princess Hotel on Yaoworat Road. A great old hotel and we scored a room with a balcony overlooking Chinatown and the Chao Phraya River.
Chinatown is home to Bangkok's biggest and best gold merchants and walking down Yaowarat Road takes you past literally dozens of big stores full of gold jewellry, chains and trinkets. The gold here is reputed to be the best in Thailand and folks travel from all over the city just to buy gold from Yaoworat.
Chinatown is also home to endless rabitt warrens of markets selling everything you could ever want from tools to torches to DVD's and clothes to food, food and more food. We spent days just exploring the tiny crowded lanes with bargains on every corner. This area is as close as you will get to the Bangkok of 20 or 30 years ago - not many tourists just plenty of commerce and crowds.
And the street food around here is wonderful :)
Chinatown is home to Bangkok's biggest and best gold merchants and walking down Yaowarat Road takes you past literally dozens of big stores full of gold jewellry, chains and trinkets. The gold here is reputed to be the best in Thailand and folks travel from all over the city just to buy gold from Yaoworat.
Chinatown is also home to endless rabitt warrens of markets selling everything you could ever want from tools to torches to DVD's and clothes to food, food and more food. We spent days just exploring the tiny crowded lanes with bargains on every corner. This area is as close as you will get to the Bangkok of 20 or 30 years ago - not many tourists just plenty of commerce and crowds.
And the street food around here is wonderful :)
New Years Eve bombings
Returning to our hotel room in Khon Kaen at ten to midnight, we were still unaware that Bangkok had been hit by a series of bomb explosions hours earlier, throwing the city into chaos.
Full of beer and blurry eyed I switched on the TV and saw the news. Unfortunately midnight arrived at that moment, and the city of Khon Kaen erupted into a series of explosions. Just big fireworks, but no one had pulled the plug on the party locally. Fireworks just arent as much fun when bombs are exploding.
From here on Thailand lost its generally happy demeanour and for the rest of our stay - particularly in Bangkok - the streets were full of jumpy people, soldiers with automatic weapons and security everywhere.
Here's hoping this kind of madness doesn't become part of life in Thailand.
Full of beer and blurry eyed I switched on the TV and saw the news. Unfortunately midnight arrived at that moment, and the city of Khon Kaen erupted into a series of explosions. Just big fireworks, but no one had pulled the plug on the party locally. Fireworks just arent as much fun when bombs are exploding.
From here on Thailand lost its generally happy demeanour and for the rest of our stay - particularly in Bangkok - the streets were full of jumpy people, soldiers with automatic weapons and security everywhere.
Here's hoping this kind of madness doesn't become part of life in Thailand.
Leaving Vientiane
Leaving Laos via the Freindship Bridge is a lot easier than arriving. There is no queue and no waiting and it took only moments before we were waiting for the 20 baht bus ride back to Nong Khai, Thailand.
There are 3 or 4 duty free shops to entertain you whilst you wait, otherwise there is little to do. We stocked up on goodies then the bus arrived and we waved goodbye to Laos as we zoomed across the Mekong back into Thailand.
Arrival in Thailand was painless (once you figure out where the immigration forms are) and we were through in 5 minutes. Our driver was waiting nearby to take us to the Nong Khai riverfront to watch the sunset over dinner and drinks.
There are 3 or 4 duty free shops to entertain you whilst you wait, otherwise there is little to do. We stocked up on goodies then the bus arrived and we waved goodbye to Laos as we zoomed across the Mekong back into Thailand.
Arrival in Thailand was painless (once you figure out where the immigration forms are) and we were through in 5 minutes. Our driver was waiting nearby to take us to the Nong Khai riverfront to watch the sunset over dinner and drinks.
Phra That Luang
If you visit Vientiane you will see this place sooner or later, whether you take a tour or are travelling on your own. Phra That Luang is the city's most impressive sight in a city with a very short list of "must see" sights.
Surrounded by masses of open space, the massive golden spire of Phra That Luang stands out as a truly Lao example of buddhist achitecture and is quite a sight, gleaming brighly in the sun. The sparse surrounds emphasise its size, as you can actually view the whole structure from afar without the usualy juble of buildings you find in other Asian cities.
There is a strip of vendors about 500 metres away from Phra That Luang, selling hats (you will need one), soft drinks and other trinkets.
Phra That Luang is a short drive from the center of town and easily reached by Jumbo (Tuk Tuk). If you walk here you can get a ride back into town as a few Jumbos hang around the entrance.
Surrounded by masses of open space, the massive golden spire of Phra That Luang stands out as a truly Lao example of buddhist achitecture and is quite a sight, gleaming brighly in the sun. The sparse surrounds emphasise its size, as you can actually view the whole structure from afar without the usualy juble of buildings you find in other Asian cities.
There is a strip of vendors about 500 metres away from Phra That Luang, selling hats (you will need one), soft drinks and other trinkets.
Phra That Luang is a short drive from the center of town and easily reached by Jumbo (Tuk Tuk). If you walk here you can get a ride back into town as a few Jumbos hang around the entrance.
Prataxui Monument
Vientiane's most visible sight is the Prataxui Monument, a gigantic concrete arch modelled after the Arc De Triomphe in Paris. Built with concrete originally intended for military purposes, it stands today as a giant reminder of this country's confusing political past.
For a few thousand kip you can climb the stairs up to the roof of the monument, and enjoy one of the few places in the city where it is possible to see a panoramic view of the Vientiane skyline.
The monument is set in pleasant grounds and there is a small park and fountain within the grounds. On the ground floor you can purchase snacks and refreshments.
There are several floors inside the monument, full of vendors selling souvenirs and trinkets. Prices here start at outrageous levels.....many times more expensive than prices at the morning market.
The vendors just seem to want to make a killing and appeared completely disinterested in actually selling stuff.....if I can't rip you off I don't want to sell to you at all" seemed to be the attitude.
Despite this it is worth visiting this wierd and wonderful monument.
For a few thousand kip you can climb the stairs up to the roof of the monument, and enjoy one of the few places in the city where it is possible to see a panoramic view of the Vientiane skyline.
The monument is set in pleasant grounds and there is a small park and fountain within the grounds. On the ground floor you can purchase snacks and refreshments.
There are several floors inside the monument, full of vendors selling souvenirs and trinkets. Prices here start at outrageous levels.....many times more expensive than prices at the morning market.
The vendors just seem to want to make a killing and appeared completely disinterested in actually selling stuff.....if I can't rip you off I don't want to sell to you at all" seemed to be the attitude.
Despite this it is worth visiting this wierd and wonderful monument.
Wat Si Saket
Next stop was Wat Si Saket which is a buddhist temple (now called a "museum" in socialist terminolgy) wedged in between the riverfront and Lane Xang Avenue.
Surrounded by beautiful yellowish stucco walls and pleasant gardens, the inner courtyard of Wat Si Saket is a real suprise. Thousands of buddha images line the inner walls of the temple and a central building houses the main buddha image.
It is almost suprising to see the place actually populated by monks, although in practice Laos allows Buddhism to continue much as it always has done.
Wat Si Saket is beautifully maintained (the inner courtyard at least) although the outer gardens are a little rambling and the walls could do with a little care. It is one of the few wats in the city that you should make a point of visiting.
Surrounded by beautiful yellowish stucco walls and pleasant gardens, the inner courtyard of Wat Si Saket is a real suprise. Thousands of buddha images line the inner walls of the temple and a central building houses the main buddha image.
It is almost suprising to see the place actually populated by monks, although in practice Laos allows Buddhism to continue much as it always has done.
Wat Si Saket is beautifully maintained (the inner courtyard at least) although the outer gardens are a little rambling and the walls could do with a little care. It is one of the few wats in the city that you should make a point of visiting.
Vientiane Morning Market
First stop in Vientiane, the capital city of Laos, was the famous Vientiane morning markets. We were looking for some breakfast and we soon found a place that did excellent stuffed omelettes with rice.
Paying the bill was a little confusing as I had changed a 1000 baht note for 270,000 lao kip and the bill was something like 140,000 kip for 9 people.
The markets sell black market booze and cigarettes, honey, lots of food and drinks and stuff like clothing. However the best part is the silverware stores upstairs. There are virtually no bargains in Vientiane (most things are cheaper across the river in Thailand) but silverware is the exception. You can also get some good deals on Lao rubies and Cambodian sapphires, if you have an eye for gemstones.
Dozens of little silver merchants do a brisk trade in silverware throughout the day.
There are also a few gold merchants but as with the gemstones be very careful.....if you can't tell gold plate from solid gold you can rest assured you will be robbed blind.
Paying the bill was a little confusing as I had changed a 1000 baht note for 270,000 lao kip and the bill was something like 140,000 kip for 9 people.
The markets sell black market booze and cigarettes, honey, lots of food and drinks and stuff like clothing. However the best part is the silverware stores upstairs. There are virtually no bargains in Vientiane (most things are cheaper across the river in Thailand) but silverware is the exception. You can also get some good deals on Lao rubies and Cambodian sapphires, if you have an eye for gemstones.
Dozens of little silver merchants do a brisk trade in silverware throughout the day.
There are also a few gold merchants but as with the gemstones be very careful.....if you can't tell gold plate from solid gold you can rest assured you will be robbed blind.
Off to Laos
On arrival at the Thai side (Nong Khai) of the Thai-Lao Freindship Bridge things went nice and simply. A minute to get a passport stamp then you buy a 20 baht ticket for a bus ride over to the Lao side.
They packed us into the bus like sardines then drove us over the mighty Mekong River to the Lao immigration building. Here, the fun really began. First up was a massive and very slow moving queue to pass through immigration. After a while it became obvious we were going to be stuck there for hours, however happily fate intervened. A gentleman tapped me on the shoulder and asked if I would like to rent transport for the day. On offer was a 9 seater van with driver for 1200 baht for all day....handy as there were 9 of us. The price was right and the clincher was when he whispered "and I get you out of the queue".
I agreed and true to his word the guy took our passports right to the front of the queue and they were stamped immediately. And we were off - well kind of - there was a 10 baht entry fee to pay for the privelege of visiting Communist Laos first.
Fees paid our driver began the 19 Km drive from the bridge into Vientiane city.
They packed us into the bus like sardines then drove us over the mighty Mekong River to the Lao immigration building. Here, the fun really began. First up was a massive and very slow moving queue to pass through immigration. After a while it became obvious we were going to be stuck there for hours, however happily fate intervened. A gentleman tapped me on the shoulder and asked if I would like to rent transport for the day. On offer was a 9 seater van with driver for 1200 baht for all day....handy as there were 9 of us. The price was right and the clincher was when he whispered "and I get you out of the queue".
I agreed and true to his word the guy took our passports right to the front of the queue and they were stamped immediately. And we were off - well kind of - there was a 10 baht entry fee to pay for the privelege of visiting Communist Laos first.
Fees paid our driver began the 19 Km drive from the bridge into Vientiane city.
Lao Consulate
We were planning a trip to Vientiane, Laos, just 180 km north of Khon Kaen. So we paid a visit to the Lao consulate in town to arrange visas.
The consulate is a utilitarian place, just an empty concrete floored waiting area with a few tables and a little window behind which two rather curt gentlemen reside. Encouraging tourism is clearly not thier top priority judging from their less than helpful manner.
However, to be fair, getting a visa is easy and quick here. The same process in Bangkok would have involved a lot of travelling, a long queue and a lot more bullshit.
Australians pay a fee of 1400 baht for the express service (1 hour turnaround) or 1200 baht if you can wait 2 days. Most people from europe/usa/canada pay a similar fee though there is some variation. ASEAN passport holders pay no fee.
We handed over the money and two passport photos and went for a 45 minute walk. On our return the visas were ready!
The consulate is a utilitarian place, just an empty concrete floored waiting area with a few tables and a little window behind which two rather curt gentlemen reside. Encouraging tourism is clearly not thier top priority judging from their less than helpful manner.
However, to be fair, getting a visa is easy and quick here. The same process in Bangkok would have involved a lot of travelling, a long queue and a lot more bullshit.
Australians pay a fee of 1400 baht for the express service (1 hour turnaround) or 1200 baht if you can wait 2 days. Most people from europe/usa/canada pay a similar fee though there is some variation. ASEAN passport holders pay no fee.
We handed over the money and two passport photos and went for a 45 minute walk. On our return the visas were ready!
Charoen Thani Princess Hotel, Khon Kaen
We got to the Charoen Thani Princess Hotel, Khon Kaen early.....just after dawn and hours before the standard noon check in time so I was expecting to be left waiting for a good few hours before getting a bed to sleep in.
This was where the staff at the Charoen Thani Princess made thier first good impression. Despite it being Christmas Eve and us turning up 5 hours early, they smiled and had us in a room in 10 minutes flat. That was much appreciated after a hard 24 hours of travelling non stop by car, air and rail.
This is no small gesture - most hotels will keep you waiting (whether they are full or not) until 12 or 1pm just because you didn't pay extra to check in early.
The Charoen Thani Princess Hotel was our home for 10 days and whilst the place is slowly getting tatty (as do all Thai hotels given time and lousy maintenance) it is comfortable and well run. There is a reasonable breakfast buffet, a moderately sized swimming pool and the hotel has a pleasant lobby with giant TV screen and bar.
The Charoen Thani Princess Hotel is home to a large entertainment complex, including the city's biggest and best disco "Zolid" as well as snooker, karaoke, cocktail lounge and massage parlour.
The hotel is well located with easy access to restaurants, nightlife, supermarkets and shopping. All rooms have quite good views over the city although the window handles are prone to snapping off!
Overall this place is a fair bit of comfort for a very low price.
This was where the staff at the Charoen Thani Princess made thier first good impression. Despite it being Christmas Eve and us turning up 5 hours early, they smiled and had us in a room in 10 minutes flat. That was much appreciated after a hard 24 hours of travelling non stop by car, air and rail.
This is no small gesture - most hotels will keep you waiting (whether they are full or not) until 12 or 1pm just because you didn't pay extra to check in early.
The Charoen Thani Princess Hotel was our home for 10 days and whilst the place is slowly getting tatty (as do all Thai hotels given time and lousy maintenance) it is comfortable and well run. There is a reasonable breakfast buffet, a moderately sized swimming pool and the hotel has a pleasant lobby with giant TV screen and bar.
The Charoen Thani Princess Hotel is home to a large entertainment complex, including the city's biggest and best disco "Zolid" as well as snooker, karaoke, cocktail lounge and massage parlour.
The hotel is well located with easy access to restaurants, nightlife, supermarkets and shopping. All rooms have quite good views over the city although the window handles are prone to snapping off!
Overall this place is a fair bit of comfort for a very low price.
The longest day
It was a long day. First up in Malaysia, a one hour cab ride to the airport. Then another 2 hours messing about at the airport before the plane took off. The flight itself took another 2 hours and by the time we reached the taxi rank at Bangkok airport it was dark.
The plan.....get a train or bus straight to Khon Kaen in North East Thailand without staying over in Bangkok. It was 6pm. A phone call to Bangkok's Hualamphong railway station confirmed that a sleeper train was departing at 8.30pm so we jumped in a taxi and asked him to get us there in time.
We made it with plenty of time to spare and I was feeling smug about how smoothly things had gone when I spied the train carriage. The train carriage with lots of hard wooden seats and *no sleeper bunks*.
I knew then we were in for a night of hell and had to be dragged kicking and screaming on to the train. The look of horror remained on my face until dawn, literally frozen on, as temperatures during that 9 hour journey almost reached freezing.
Just as the train was getting close to our destination and the air was warming up a little, some old Irish bastard from the first class car walked past on the way to the breakfast car and remarked "you won't make that mistake again will you". Lucky for him, I couldn't find anything heavy to throw at him.
The plan.....get a train or bus straight to Khon Kaen in North East Thailand without staying over in Bangkok. It was 6pm. A phone call to Bangkok's Hualamphong railway station confirmed that a sleeper train was departing at 8.30pm so we jumped in a taxi and asked him to get us there in time.
We made it with plenty of time to spare and I was feeling smug about how smoothly things had gone when I spied the train carriage. The train carriage with lots of hard wooden seats and *no sleeper bunks*.
I knew then we were in for a night of hell and had to be dragged kicking and screaming on to the train. The look of horror remained on my face until dawn, literally frozen on, as temperatures during that 9 hour journey almost reached freezing.
Just as the train was getting close to our destination and the air was warming up a little, some old Irish bastard from the first class car walked past on the way to the breakfast car and remarked "you won't make that mistake again will you". Lucky for him, I couldn't find anything heavy to throw at him.
Monday, January 15, 2007
Off to Thailand
Our last day in KL arrived and we packed up and hopped into a taxi bound for KL's Low Cost Carrier airport terminal (LCC) (Do these people have a fetish for acronyms or what?). You kind of feel like a cheapskate asking a cab to take you to the LCC, its a bit like asking for a ride to the soup kitchen.
An hour later we were in the rather tacky crowded building that is the LCC terminal. The price you pay for flying cheap with Air Asia is that 1) no seat allocations are given and 2) Malaysians feel the urge to form long queues to get on the aircraft, as if one seat on the plane is much better than another. Anyway, you end up queuing instead of relaxing.
Our plane left an hour late, because another plane was late, and both flights left from the same gate screwing up the queues. Because of this mixup we somehow ended up first on the plane (having lined up for the wrong plane altogether) much to the annoyance of those who had pushed and jostled and misbehaved for the past hour to get those very same seats.
Once on the plane, it was a nice flight, with the only notable exception being two bad mannered foreigners who put thier dirty great feet up on the cabin wall and who's photo I will shortly publish as an example of how not to conduct yourself whilst on an aeroplane !
An hour later we were in the rather tacky crowded building that is the LCC terminal. The price you pay for flying cheap with Air Asia is that 1) no seat allocations are given and 2) Malaysians feel the urge to form long queues to get on the aircraft, as if one seat on the plane is much better than another. Anyway, you end up queuing instead of relaxing.
Our plane left an hour late, because another plane was late, and both flights left from the same gate screwing up the queues. Because of this mixup we somehow ended up first on the plane (having lined up for the wrong plane altogether) much to the annoyance of those who had pushed and jostled and misbehaved for the past hour to get those very same seats.
Once on the plane, it was a nice flight, with the only notable exception being two bad mannered foreigners who put thier dirty great feet up on the cabin wall and who's photo I will shortly publish as an example of how not to conduct yourself whilst on an aeroplane !
Buses, buses and more buses
Walking back from Jalan Petaling we took a shortcut through Puduraya Bus station, KL's crowded, confusing central bus terminal. From here you can take a bus all over Malaysia and as far afield as Singapore or Thailand.
Famous for its agressive touts and thieves, Puduraya didn't disapoint and we were virtually chased through the terminal by numerous dubious gentlemen. Entertaining for us but if you arrive there tired with all your luggage, you really need to watch yourself here.
Puduraya even has its own multistorey hotel on its roof!
Walking out of Puduraya down to Jalan Imbi we encountered the longest queue of buses I have ever seen stretching for several kilometres in both directions. All belching diesel fumes. What a fun part of town!
Famous for its agressive touts and thieves, Puduraya didn't disapoint and we were virtually chased through the terminal by numerous dubious gentlemen. Entertaining for us but if you arrive there tired with all your luggage, you really need to watch yourself here.
Puduraya even has its own multistorey hotel on its roof!
Walking out of Puduraya down to Jalan Imbi we encountered the longest queue of buses I have ever seen stretching for several kilometres in both directions. All belching diesel fumes. What a fun part of town!
Shopping
We wanted to do some shopping and KL's dreary shopping malls just weren't hitting the spot. We decided to start with the KL Central Market, and try our luck.
The Central Market is well located near Chinatown, the older and more interesting part of the city. The Market has an interesting old facade and a long interesting history.
Sadly however the Market these days is two semi deserted floors of tourist stalls.....there are a few interesting independant clothing retailers which are unique but most the goods on offer are Petronas Towers ashtrays and cheap handicrafts imported from elsewhere in Asia.
Fifteen minutes later we left and headed over to Jalan Petaling, the large covered outdoor market area.
Jalan Petaling is a lot more lively and there are hundreds of stalls - fresh food, roasted nuts, clothing and yes even Petronas Towers ashtrays. There were also lots of tables being set up by pirated DVD vendors offered the latest movies for RM10 apiece.
The area is actually several streets, which have been enclosed with translucent blue roofing above. This has the effect of keeping away both the rain and the sun, so wandering around here is quite painless.
You still won't find any real Malaysian handicrafts or local goods, but the prices for what is on offer are reasonable if you haggle. There are lots of tourists about so all the usual junk tourists buy is on sale. You will find plenty to eat and drink around here and most people will enjoy visiting here.
Some folks even stay right in the middle of Jalan Petaling - a popular choice is the Swiss Inn Hotel located in the center of the action.
The Central Market is well located near Chinatown, the older and more interesting part of the city. The Market has an interesting old facade and a long interesting history.
Sadly however the Market these days is two semi deserted floors of tourist stalls.....there are a few interesting independant clothing retailers which are unique but most the goods on offer are Petronas Towers ashtrays and cheap handicrafts imported from elsewhere in Asia.
Fifteen minutes later we left and headed over to Jalan Petaling, the large covered outdoor market area.
Jalan Petaling is a lot more lively and there are hundreds of stalls - fresh food, roasted nuts, clothing and yes even Petronas Towers ashtrays. There were also lots of tables being set up by pirated DVD vendors offered the latest movies for RM10 apiece.
The area is actually several streets, which have been enclosed with translucent blue roofing above. This has the effect of keeping away both the rain and the sun, so wandering around here is quite painless.
You still won't find any real Malaysian handicrafts or local goods, but the prices for what is on offer are reasonable if you haggle. There are lots of tourists about so all the usual junk tourists buy is on sale. You will find plenty to eat and drink around here and most people will enjoy visiting here.
Some folks even stay right in the middle of Jalan Petaling - a popular choice is the Swiss Inn Hotel located in the center of the action.
Sunday, January 14, 2007
Dinner at Ampang
Escaping from Chow Kit at full speed our host drove us up Jalan Ampang past KL's embassy row and we headed out of the city into the Ampang residential area.
After driving past mile after mile of bleak apartment buildings and housing developments, we arrived at our host's apartment and had a coffee. Then a five minute walk to the local community food center to experience a genuine Malay dinner.
It was rickety and run down but lit up with fairy lights and freindly. Maybe ten food stalls and a refreshment stand so we ordered half a dozen Malay soups and curries and refreshments. All went quite well until I ordered a bottle of Tiger beer and recieved a kick under the table for my sins.....there is no booze on the menu here.
The food was pleasant as was the company and the best part of the evening was experiencing dinner with the local families, who were dropping in for dinner after a day's work, and the sense of community that prevails. Dinner (twice as much as we could actually eat so we took some away with us in bags) and soft drinks for six people cam to a tad under RM70.
Just after leaving around 10pm it poured with rain so we headed home contented after an enjoyable and different evening.
After driving past mile after mile of bleak apartment buildings and housing developments, we arrived at our host's apartment and had a coffee. Then a five minute walk to the local community food center to experience a genuine Malay dinner.
It was rickety and run down but lit up with fairy lights and freindly. Maybe ten food stalls and a refreshment stand so we ordered half a dozen Malay soups and curries and refreshments. All went quite well until I ordered a bottle of Tiger beer and recieved a kick under the table for my sins.....there is no booze on the menu here.
The food was pleasant as was the company and the best part of the evening was experiencing dinner with the local families, who were dropping in for dinner after a day's work, and the sense of community that prevails. Dinner (twice as much as we could actually eat so we took some away with us in bags) and soft drinks for six people cam to a tad under RM70.
Just after leaving around 10pm it poured with rain so we headed home contented after an enjoyable and different evening.
Men dressed as ladies
Every journey hits the gutter sooner or later and we found the gutter on a visit to Chow Kit, Kuala Lumpur's seedy and rather downmarket red light district. The area is home to a rabbit warren of food and fruit stalls, cheap clothing vendors, and loud shopping centres and bazaars blaring music as sleazy looking local chaps wander around the streets.
Our local guide for the evening drove us to Chow Kit in a four wheel drive vehicle (though Chow Kit has its own monorail station) so the first challenge was scouring every poky alley in search of a parking spot. That achieved, we explored the stalls and had some fresh fruit juice before going down to check out the street where all the action is.
Chow Kit ain't Manila or Bangkok. I dare say the nightlife is better in Baghdad than here. Dark run down streets populated by possibly the world's ugliest transvestites and the occasional aging woman dressed in a sari, all lurking about doorways and calling out sweet nothings. After a five minute walk around this somewhat pathetic area we headed off, we had seen the gutter and it wasn't worth seeing.
Our local guide for the evening drove us to Chow Kit in a four wheel drive vehicle (though Chow Kit has its own monorail station) so the first challenge was scouring every poky alley in search of a parking spot. That achieved, we explored the stalls and had some fresh fruit juice before going down to check out the street where all the action is.
Chow Kit ain't Manila or Bangkok. I dare say the nightlife is better in Baghdad than here. Dark run down streets populated by possibly the world's ugliest transvestites and the occasional aging woman dressed in a sari, all lurking about doorways and calling out sweet nothings. After a five minute walk around this somewhat pathetic area we headed off, we had seen the gutter and it wasn't worth seeing.
Petronas Twin Towers
For several days now we had spotted the Petronas Twin Towers from all over KL (you can hardly not spot them as they tower over the city, visible from virtually everywhere) so it was time to visit.
Sitting atop the Suria KLCC shopping centre and alongside a large park with swimming areas, the towers sure do impress close up. As I was about to take a photo, some guy offered to sell me a Rolex watch and looked quite suprised when I showed no interest whatsoever.
We hoped to get some free tickets to visit the skybridge joining the towers but couldn't be bothered getting there early so we turned up at 2pm and found there were no more tickets. No one in our group shed any tears over that as the towers look better from a distance and the views are better from the Menara Tower. So we explored Suria KLCC a little.
This is yet another massive shopping centre in a city full of shopping centers and this one was expensive, its only interesting feature an enormous christmas tree in the centre court. What we did enjoy was a place called California Pizza, where 3 of us devoured two excellent pizzas and exploited the unlimited free drink refills to the max.
Then we wandered off past the lake outside to the swimming pool and playground, which was packed with people enjoying the water and splashing about. Out walk ended at a modern looking silver mosque which was a nice backdrop for the sunset marking the end of another pleasant day in KL.
Sitting atop the Suria KLCC shopping centre and alongside a large park with swimming areas, the towers sure do impress close up. As I was about to take a photo, some guy offered to sell me a Rolex watch and looked quite suprised when I showed no interest whatsoever.
We hoped to get some free tickets to visit the skybridge joining the towers but couldn't be bothered getting there early so we turned up at 2pm and found there were no more tickets. No one in our group shed any tears over that as the towers look better from a distance and the views are better from the Menara Tower. So we explored Suria KLCC a little.
This is yet another massive shopping centre in a city full of shopping centers and this one was expensive, its only interesting feature an enormous christmas tree in the centre court. What we did enjoy was a place called California Pizza, where 3 of us devoured two excellent pizzas and exploited the unlimited free drink refills to the max.
Then we wandered off past the lake outside to the swimming pool and playground, which was packed with people enjoying the water and splashing about. Out walk ended at a modern looking silver mosque which was a nice backdrop for the sunset marking the end of another pleasant day in KL.
KL Taxis
The taxi service in KL has improved a lot over the years. 20 years ago, taxi cab drivers in this city were so notoriously dishonest you were almost guaranteed to be overcharged, insulted, dropped off at the wrong destination or just outright ripped off.
Today things have improved, though KL taxis still leave much to be desired. Even today it is a battle to get a meter switched on, even though most taxis have one. Only once in several dozen cab rides did I succeed in having the meter switched on. Mostly we were forced to use coupons.
Coupons are Malaysia's answer to taming the cab drivers. The airports, big hotels, tourist attractions and tranportation points all now offer taxi coupon booths where you state your destination, pay a fixed price, then hand the coupon to any cab driver who will happily take you directly to your destination.
Yes, the system cuts out most of the larceny of the days of old, but it also fixes cab fares at way above what it would actually cost you if the cab driver just turned on his meter. That trip that costs you RM8 by coupon is actually only RM3-4 using the meter.
Why the government is unable to direct cabbies to use thier meters in this day and age is a mystery. Cab drivers in Singapore, Bangkok and Hong Kong have all been tamed......why not KL?
Today things have improved, though KL taxis still leave much to be desired. Even today it is a battle to get a meter switched on, even though most taxis have one. Only once in several dozen cab rides did I succeed in having the meter switched on. Mostly we were forced to use coupons.
Coupons are Malaysia's answer to taming the cab drivers. The airports, big hotels, tourist attractions and tranportation points all now offer taxi coupon booths where you state your destination, pay a fixed price, then hand the coupon to any cab driver who will happily take you directly to your destination.
Yes, the system cuts out most of the larceny of the days of old, but it also fixes cab fares at way above what it would actually cost you if the cab driver just turned on his meter. That trip that costs you RM8 by coupon is actually only RM3-4 using the meter.
Why the government is unable to direct cabbies to use thier meters in this day and age is a mystery. Cab drivers in Singapore, Bangkok and Hong Kong have all been tamed......why not KL?
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